Types of pot for your plants

It is one of those things that you do not consider until you are in flour with the plants. The types of pots . Bigger, smaller, what depth, drains, diameters, plastic, ceramic … Each plant or group of plants is better adapted to different types of pots. Let’s make a classification.



It is clear that when we want a plant we tend to choose the pot for its color, shape, material, smooth, with reliefs, etc. We always think about the aesthetic aspect of the pot, but have you ever wondered if the plant you are going to put in will be “comfortable”?

There are certain considerations that must be taken before deciding on the aesthetic element.

  • Find out about the size that the plant can reach, both in height and volume. This will determine the final container.
  • Decide on the material of the pot : Even if you later use another pot to beautify, be careful especially with the plastic pots that go inside. There are plants whose root system is more sensitive to heat. The plastic ones accumulate a lot if they are exposed to the sun.


Plastic flowerpot

They are cheap and we will not have problems in most plants. As we have already mentioned, be careful with sun exposure as the root zone can store too much heat.

Porous mud

We do not have the problem of warming. Evaporation is greater so the waterings will be somewhat more frequent. plants with a low tolerance to water saturation will appreciate this type of pot. One of the most common problems is that salts tend to “stick” to the sides. After a while the salt concentration can be too high for the plant, even toxic.

Varnished clay

Perhaps one of the best types. We do not have the problem of salt accumulation and heating. By having the pores clogged, the evaporation of the water is much less and the frequency of irrigation can decrease. What we have to manage well in this type of pots is a model drainage if we do not want to cause water stress in the root zone and drown the plant.


The vast majority of indoor plants, for example, reach heights of just over 50 cm, being comfortable with pot diameters of about 30 cm. If they are smaller, obviously a smaller diameter will suffice.

When the plant exceeds 1 meter in height we can think of pots of about 40 cm in diameter (upper).

From 2 meters we must increase the width considerably so that the root develops across the width and holds the plant well. Pots between 50 and 60 cm in diameter will be suitable.


Another aspect to consider is the depth of the pot. For tall and very leafy plants we have to take into account, apart from the plant diameter, the depth. We need the roots to hold a tall and weighty plant well, so they will need depth as well as width for its proper development.

The best way to know if the pot is insufficient in depth is simple. If the plant leans and you notice that the trunk or stem is not attached and it takes off from the pot, you will have to find another pot deeper.

You do not necessarily have to increase the diameter. The sansevieria is one of those that prefer a deeper and smaller diameter tall pot. In the photo on the right you can see a Kentia that lacks substrate and is leaning to the right. You need a deeper pot.


We have a special case such as bonsai, cacti or succulent plants that need special conditions.

  • Small cacti and bonsai tend to develop root systems that are shallow but wide, so tray pots are best. In addition, in bonsai this type of pot also has an important aesthetic component.
  • Succulents generally prefer tight root environments. They feel more comfortable if their root system is a little tight in the container. Some cacti also prefer to have the most contained root in smaller pots.

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